Let’s start with the obvious: there’s absolutely nothing wrong with buying a £50 watch. If all you want is something that looks half-decent, tells you the time, and maybe lights up when you press a button, job done. No judgement here. In fact, most of us have happily worn cheap watches for years without giving it a second thought.
But as you get older something happens. You start looking at watches the way you once looked at cars or guitars. You begin to appreciate the craftsmanship. You want to understand why some cost about the same as a decent takeaway and others cost more than your first house deposit.
Because here’s the thing: a £50 watch and a £5,000 watch both tell you it’s quarter past three. They both keep you on time for the school run or remind you you’re late for that meeting you swore you wouldn’t be late for. So what makes one cost as much as a decent second-hand car while the other is cheaper than filling up your actual car’s fuel tank?
Let’s dig into what separates a “decent” watch from a disposable one, and how to know if splashing out is worth it.
Function vs Craft
At the most basic level, yes, all watches do the same thing: they tell the time. But expensive watches aren’t really about function – they’re about craftsmanship.
Cheap watches are mass-produced, usually with quartz movements (battery-powered) that are cheap to make and very accurate. There’s nothing wrong with them at all. But higher-end watches are often built around mechanical movements – tiny, intricate machines made up of hundreds of parts working together without a battery in sight.
It’s a bit like comparing a bog-standard family hatchback with a classic sports car. Both will get you from A to B, but one has been engineered to within an inch of its life by people who take pride in every tiny detail.
What You’re Paying For
When you see the price tag on a high-end watch, you’re not just paying for something to tell the time. You’re paying for:
- Materials: Stainless steel vs precious metals. Plastic crystal vs sapphire crystal (which is nearly scratch-proof). Ordinary leather strap vs hand-stitched alligator. The better the materials, the longer the watch lasts – and the better it looks after years of wear.
- Movement: The heart of the watch. Mechanical movements are works of art in themselves, often assembled by hand and capable of lasting decades if looked after.
- Craftsmanship: High-end watches aren’t churned out on an assembly line. They’re designed, polished, tested, and finished by people who’ve been perfecting the skill for years.
- Heritage: Brands like Rolex, Omega, and Patek Philippe have been making watches for over a century. You’re buying into a history of innovation, prestige, and reputation.
- Exclusivity: Some watches are produced in tiny numbers each year. Scarcity drives up value. That £10,000 watch may partly be that price because only a handful exist.
So while a cheap watch gives you practicality, an expensive one gives you longevity, artistry, and – let’s be honest – bragging rights.
Why Bother Spending Big?
This is the big question, isn’t it? Why would anyone spend thousands on a wristwatch when their phone does the same job?
Here are a few reasons:
- Longevity – A decent watch isn’t a throwaway purchase. Look after it, and it’ll still be running decades from now. Some families even hand them down as heirlooms.
- Resale Value – Unlike most consumer goods, certain watches hold their value or even increase over time. Try saying that about your £50 special when the battery dies.
- Craft and Style – There’s a joy in wearing something beautifully made. A cheap suit and a tailored one both keep you clothed, but you can feel the difference. Same with watches.
- Personal Statement – Watches are one of the few pieces of jewellery men commonly wear. A good one says something about your style, your taste, and maybe even your priorities.
How Much Should You Spend?
This is where things get tricky. Watches range from £20 on Amazon to £200,000 at auction. The sensible middle ground depends on what you’re after.
- £50–£200: Perfectly fine everyday watches. Brands like Seiko, Casio, and Citizen make great options here.
- £200–£1,000: A step up in quality. You’ll find better materials, automatic movements, and watches that feel more substantial. Think Hamilton, Tissot, or entry-level Seiko automatics.
- £1,000–£5,000: Serious watch territory. You’ll get luxury names like Omega and TAG Heuer, with professional-level build and features.
- £5,000+: Iconic pieces and status symbols. Rolex Submariners, Breitlings, and beyond. At this level you’re paying for prestige, resale value, and the kind of quality that could genuinely last a lifetime.
If you’re considering your first “big” watch, somewhere in the £500–£2,000 range is often the sweet spot. You get noticeable quality without needing a second mortgage.
Why One Watch Costs £1,000 and Another £10,000
This is the bit that baffles most people. How can two watches, both mechanical and both well made, have such different prices?
A few reasons:
- Brand prestige – Rolex and Patek Philippe carry weight. You’re paying for the name, the heritage, and the recognition.
- Materials – That £10,000 watch might be made of platinum, not steel. The dial might be enamel, the strap exotic leather.
- Complications – These are extra features beyond telling the time, like moon phases, chronographs, perpetual calendars. The more complications, the more complex (and expensive) the movement.
- Exclusivity – Limited editions or low production runs mean higher value. Some watches are so in demand that you can’t buy them new at all without years on a waiting list.
- Finishing – High-end watches aren’t just built, they’re polished, engraved, and decorated to perfection – even on the parts nobody ever sees. That kind of labour adds up.
In short: both might keep perfect time, but the £10,000 piece is a blend of rarity, luxury, and craftsmanship that goes way beyond simple function.
How to Spot a Quality Watch
If you’re thinking of taking the plunge, here’s what to look for:
- Weight: A good watch usually has a satisfying heft from quality materials.
- Smoothness: Mechanical second hands should sweep smoothly, not tick once per second.
- Crystal: Sapphire is much tougher than mineral glass or plastic.
- Movement: Research whether it’s quartz or mechanical. If mechanical, is it automatic (self-winding) or manual?
- Brand reputation: Stick to makers with history and credibility.
- Finish: Edges should be smooth, dials crisp, lettering sharp.
And here’s a dad tip: if you’re buying new, keep the box and paperwork. They add to resale value later if you ever decide to upgrade. And don’t let the kids anywhere near it!
The Bottom Line
Watches sit in that strange space between tool and luxury. Yes, you can get by perfectly well with a cheap one – or just using your phone – but a quality watch is something different. It’s a mix of engineering, design, and heritage that, for some people, justifies the cost.
If you’re tempted, decide what matters most to you: accuracy, prestige, investment, or simply wearing something you love the look of. Then set a budget and stick to it. A £500 Seiko can give you just as much joy as a £5,000 Rolex – it’s about finding what feels right on your wrist and right for your wallet.
And hey, if you do splash out, at least you’ll never be late again. Or, more realistically, you’ll still be late – but you’ll look very good while admitting it was traffic.